Came across this cool article about a guy who invented the technology enabling a car to be powered by simple tap water. Looks to be the real deal, his site even has a video endorsement from Arthur C. Clarke, who no doubt knows fiction when he sees it. Here’s his diagram below.
(click on picture to check out his site)
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Too bad that for this to work it would need more power to operate than it would produce.
I’m septic
I’m antiseptic.
Your moms septic/anitseptic.
Works on paper as well as in the prototype cars but there will never be any production. Oil companies would go bankrupt and thus destroy the US economy. Research this subject… It’s interesting
No oil companies will buy the technology and keep it for when the oil runs out then they’ll bring this “new” miracle technology to light and make even more money with it because by then they’ll have bought up all the water supplies.
I’m septic and the information on the site doesn’t give enough technical details. The picture shown is unclear is it a simple water-based battery? Like you do with lemon and stuff??
Anyone has technical details on this I’d be happy to read them; but from what I know the only way we can harvest energy from pure water is by mixing it with something or provoking a nuclear reaction.
Oil companies should be more worried about the sun that’s the global source of energy!
Show me a guy that could make this possible for the masses and I’ll show you a guy that has a bullet thru his head.
This would do away with the current class system and the people at the top would not like that.
Looking at the site I say scam they are producing hydrogen yet do not diplay it by igniting it. If you are producing hydrogen and want to display it on film the best way to do that is to ignite it. It has a distincitive look and pop when burnt. Im sure there already are alternative methods of powering cars that are much better suited to oil but this isnt one of them.
The most viable alternative to oil ive seen is using hydrogen thats gathered using genetically modified algea.
Burning hydrogen (or pretty much anything) simply means to react it with oxygen. Guess what you get when hydrogen reacts with oxygen? H20 i.e water. That’s the exhaust you see when the shuttle is launched as the oygen and hydrogen rocket fuels are burned.
In other words water is already burned hydrogen. So any energy you expend to pull apart the H from the O is equal to or greater than the energy you will get by combining them together (i.e. burning or combusting them in an engine).
It’s a fraud and not even a very good one.
“The most viable alternative to oil ive seen is using hydrogen thats gathered using genetically modified algea.” — mountain rage
These alguaes seemingly have a great potential did you read the wired article? It’s still in develeppement though but they expect a marketable product sometime in the near-medium future. Its basically using sun energy but with a plant instead of a sun panel.
http://www.wired.com/news/technology/012825445600.html
For many decades there have been con artists claiming they need money to develop some new technology that has no chance of working.
Anyone who claims there is a big conspiracy is a con artist a paranoid nut too gullable for their own good or a fan of conspiracy theorys.
>Works on paper as well as in the prototype cars
It dosn’t work acording to our widly accpeted and tested theorys of how the universe works.
Get a physics book. Read it. Ideally a schoolbook from about 40 years ago
before they took out anything that could potentially go bang and dumbed down the rest.
Conservation of energy hasn’t changed.
Acording to our current theorys about how the universe works there is no way to get usefull energy to drive a car from just a tank of water and air. To make that possible someone will have to discover a new phenomenon somthing like cold fusion but which actually works.
A lot of engineers scientists and tinkerers have lived worked played and died since the industrial revolution. You would think that if there is an easy way it would have been found and convincingly demonstrated by now.
The idea of using energy from the battery to electrolyse the water then burning the hydrogen and oxygen will only work until the battery is flattened. You don’t magically get more energy than you started with so you can’t recharge the battery.
You might get 100 meters down the road but you won’t get much further.
There is no point electrolyising water aboard a car. If you have electricity available it is far more efficient to use electric motors to turn the wheels.
There may be a case for hydrogen fueled cars paticularly when the oil starts to run out. Hydrogen can be produced with electricity from solar wind tidal nuclear or coal power.
You may consider a load of radioactive waste buried under a mountain far away from you to be better than soot and fumes in the air around you and CO2 in the atmosphere above you.
Hydrogen in tanks is not paticularly dangerous it has to be mixed with air to get an explosion when released it floats away up instead of hanging about.
Making an internal combustion engine that runs well on hydrogen+ oxygen would be very difficult. It detonates rarther than burns so it won’t push the pistons smoothly.
Hydrogen is a small molecule so it will leak out round the seals. I assume this is way a fuel cell and electric motors seems to be the prefered design.
The Steam engine is water powered in the sense it uses water and a heat source. The heat source could well be battery nuclear or whatever. Of course the people at the top would like it they would save fuel bills.
SO electrolysis gives off hydrogen? Can’t you make a very big bang out of that? All you need is some form of masscarra for the driver.
It just has a lot of claims but there is not a single bit of explanation or proof that would make sense in any way. None of the “technical” stuff has any hint on what physical principle the energy for moving the car is supposed come from – just the repeated claim that all scientists are wrong.
To top it off there are some colorful statements that are blatant nonsense like
- “Water powered cars can drive on water”: There is absolutely no connection between the power source driving a vehicle and its buoyancy
- “Water powered cars look spacy”. There is absolutely no connection between the power source driving a vehicle and the shape of its body.
So based on the overall quality of the statements I’d say that web site is an obvious fraud.
There have always been ‘miracles’ in extending fuel like the 100 MPG carburator and it was the same thing the engineer who made it wouldn’t show his face because the oil companies would be after him. They should develop fusion power sources like the Bionic Man and Woman had powering them on that sci-fi show. Where’s Oscar Goldman when you need him?
Steve Icicle you win me cold with your replies sounds like you’re from the same ward that I am..
Looking closely at the info on this page and the pages that it links to suggests to me that this guy is either joking a netkook or possibly both.
The contact address for ‘Bucko Bonzai’ on the waterpoweredcar.site – I’m sure people here have heard about the movie “Buckaroo Banzai”?
The link to the king-of-the.net site also helps suggest kookdom.
Time to vote this as “lame”…
Ever seen the video of the Phillipino “inventor” who drives his water powered car around. It runs on sea water and the saltier the better.
lol. There is one surprise here. The video isn’t supposed to be funny.
http://www.mysticfamilycircus.com/Pages/Community/Projects/h2oh29MB.mov
well atleast waterpoweredcar.com speaks the truth on 911 and the reason we will invade iran in 2007
Ah hai guys well here it is all as per the author.sed fuel. tal to plastic under pressure. nkage (i.e. coupled to something at the gas pedal or throttle cable se). se (see diagram). Here tal make sure to also
PRELIMINARY PLANS TO RUN YOUR CAR ON TAP WATER!
IT ALSO WORKS ON YOUR
TRUCK / RV / MOTORCYCLE / AIRPLANE (ETC)
Will This Work?
These plans were sent to the Spirit of Ma’at anonymously from someone who does not
want his or her name printed (for obvious reasons).
We have had them checked by an expert who believes that they are real.
We also have talked with another individual who has patented a similar device and we know
by personal experience that the technology is sound.
So although we cannot guarantee it we believe these plans will enable you to build a car
that runs on water. If you test it out though do as the writer suggests and use an old car
that doesn’t represent a loss of value if you can’t make it work. And leave everything
intact so that you can always reconnect back to gas if you have to.
But if you do get it working please send us your experience for our readers. You could be
a national hero and help save our country and our world.
We know for certain that an automobile will run on water. So this could be an interesting
project for you mechanical types with a great reward of never having to purchase gasoline
for the rest of your life – and helping humanity at the same time.
Re The Need to Rustproof Your Exhaust System
It is possible to make a hybrid of both gas and water (a system that is being tested now in
Mexico) which would eliminate the need to open the head and remove the exhaust system.
Just a thought. It takes only a small amount of gas to keep the system dry.
The text sent from the anonymous individual was edited slightly for better reading. The
following is his/her words and drawings which has been given into the public domain.
- Spirit of Ma’at LLC
Introduction
It is suggested you try this out to begin with on a second vehicle you own one that you
don’t need to live with everyday until you perfect this technology.
Do-it-yourself plans allow the individual (that’s you and me folks) to make a difference.
This is the easiest and lowest-cost way to convert your car to run on (relatively) free
energy.
Now with existing technology anyone can stand up and make a difference by reducing the
local automotive pollution eliminate gasoline expenses help restore our atmosphere and
breathe a little easier.
In putting these plans into operation you will be making use of your entire existing system
except for the fuel tank and the catalytic converter.
The Plan
Build and install a low-cost alternative method for running your vehicle (internal
combustion engine) on tap water using off-the-shelf components.
This is simply an efficient way to convert ordinary tap water into gaseous hydrogen and
oxygen and then burn these vapors in the engine instead of gasoline.
This “minisystem” runs easily from your existing battery and electrical system and it
plugs into your carburetor with simple off-the-shelf fittings.
You will be installing a plastic water tank a control circuit a reaction chamber a hipressure
carb/FI fitting and 3 gauges and then hooking into your existing carb/FI.
The simplicity comes from its being an “on-demand” system requiring no fancy storage or
plumbing. You crank the gas pedal or throttle and you electrically create more vapor for
immediate consumption on demand; low-high flow rate as needed from idle to maximum
power. The only real change is that you are using tap water as fuel instead of the
traditional petroleum-ba
Given a choice which way would you choose?
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Does it really work ?
A: Yes; this is well-established technology dating back to stainless steel. But be sure to
follow these instructions using the proper mechanical and electrical assembly techniques
as this plan incorporates the best qualities of several techniques.
Q: How does it qualify as “free energy”?
A: If you’re paying someone for the water you use then it is not strictly free. But the
alternative is to keep buying into expen$ive ga$oline and its resultant hydrocarbon
pollution.
Q: Is it safe?
A: Technically it is safer than running on fossil fuel because you are no longer choking on
your own emissions (health-wise). In general it is practically as safe as your current
gasoline arrangement. You will be installing a few simple safety devices using current
automotive standards.
Q: What kind of performance can I expect?
A: Properly adjusted your modified vapor-only fuel system will run cooler and at a
modestly higher power level. The mileage performance expected from this design ranges
from 50-300 mpg (of water) depending on your adjusting skills.
Q: Can I do the modification myself?
A: Why not? If you don’t have any mechanical skills and you know someone with basic
mechanical and/or electrical skills you can even delegate some of the construction. If you
are using a fuel-injected engine you may have to get a mechanic’s opinion. [There will have
to be an adapter inserted into the fuel-injection system just as you would have to do if
you were going to run on propane hydrogen or natural gas. Ed.)
Q: What is the environmental impact that my vehicle will have?
A: It will be producing H20 steam (water vapor) and unburnt O2 (Oxygen). Hence it will be
cleaning the environment rather than dumping nauseous toxins into it. Plus you will be
helping to save our dwindling supply of atmospheric oxygen. Any excess vapor in the
reaction becomes either steam or oxygen. You can also expect to be receiving more than
casual interest from those around you.
Q: Isn’t this really a steam engine?
A: No. Really. Exceedingly high temperature and pressure are not used. This is strictly an
internal-combustion engine (burning orthohydrogen) with residual steam in the exhaust as
a by-product.
There are a few things you should know about gasoline:
Gasoline as a fuel is not necessary; it is optional.
Gasoline versus Water
There is a lot of thermochemical energy in gasoline but there is even more energy in
water. The DOE (Department of Energy) has quoted about 40% so it is probably much
more than that.
Most people are unaware that “internal combustion” is defined as “a thermo-vapor
process” – as in “no liquid in the reaction.” Most of the gasoline in a standard internal
combustion engine is actually consumed (cooked and finally broken down) in the catalytic
converter after the fuel has been not-so-burnt in the engine. Sadly this means that most
of the fuel we use in this way is used only to cool down the combustion process a pollutionridden
and inefficient means of doing that.
How It Works
Exceedingly simple. Water is pumped as needed to replenish and maintain the liquid level in
the chamber. The electrodes are vibrated with a 0.5-5A electrical pulse which breaks
2(H2O) => 2H2 + O2. When the pressure reaches say 30-60 psi you turn the key and go.
You step on the pedal you send more energy to the electrodes and thus more vapor to the
cylinders; i.e. fuel vapor on demand.
You set the idle max-flow rate to get the most efficient use of power and you’re off to
the races.
In the big picture your free energy is coming from the tap water in an open system as
the latent energy in the water is enough to power the engine and hence drive the
alternator and whatever belt-driven accessories. And the alternator is efficient enough to
run the various electrical loads (10 – 20 amps) including the additional low current to run
this vapor reaction. No extra batteries are required.
STEP BY STEP CONSTRUCTION (Please refer to diagrams at the end of this document)
OVERVIEW – Here is the suggested sequence of steps:
1. Install the CHT (or EGT) gauge and measure your current operating temp range
(gasoline) for comparison.
2. Build and test the controller to verify the correct pulse output.
3. Build the reaction chamber and test it with the controller (i.e pressure out).
4. Install the tank controller chamber and pressure fittings.
5. Run engine and adjust the control circuit as necessary for best performance.
6. Install the stainless steel valves and get the pistons/cylinders coated with ceramic.
7. Coat the exhaust system with ceramic without the catalytic converter (or let it rust out
and then replace the whole dang thang with stainless steel pipe sections).
YOU WILL NEED
plastic water tank with pump and level sensor.
control circuit wiring connectors and epoxy.
reaction chamber with electrodes and fittings.
3/8″ stainless steel flex-tubing fittings and clamps.
carb/FI vapor-pressure fitting kit. – pressure CHT (or EGT) & level gauges.
stainless steel valves.
copper mesh junction.
ceramic surface treatment for cylinders & pistons.
stainless steel or ceramic treated exhaust assembly.
BASIC TOOLS
drill screwdriver and pliers
hole cutter
wire-wrap solder-iron and clippers
DVM and oscilloscope.
REACTION CHAMBER
Construct as shown in the diagrams. Use a section of 4″ PVC waste pipe with a threaded
screw-cap fitting on one end and a standard end-cap at the other. Make sure to drill-andepoxy
or tap threads thru the PVC components for all fittings. Set and control the water
level in the chamber so that it well submerses the pipe electrodes; yet leave some
headroom to build up the hydrogen/oxygen vapor pressure. Use stainless steel wires inside
the chamber or otherwise use a protective coating; use insulated wires outside. Ensure
that the epoxy perfects the seal or otherwise lay down a bead of water-proof silicone
that can hold pressure.
The screw fitting may require soft silicone sealant or a gasket; its purpose is to hold
pressure and allow periodic inspection of the electrodes. No leaks no problems. Make sure
you get a symmetric 1-5mm gap between the 2 stainless steel pipes. The referenced
literature suggests that the closer to 1mm you get the better. You will want to get your
chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
Make your solder connections at the wire/electrode junctions nice smooth and solid; then
apply a water-proof coating e.g. the epoxy you use for joining the pipes to the screw cap.
This epoxy must be waterproof and be capable of holding me
You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
CONTROL CIRCUIT
The diagrams show a simple circuit to control and drive this mini-system. You are going to
make a ’square-pulse’ signal that ‘plays’ the electrodes like a tuning fork; which you can
watch on an oscilloscope. The premise given by the literature is: the faster you want do go
down the road the ‘fatter’ you make the pulses going into the reaction chamber. Duty
cycle will vary with the throttle in the vicinity of 90%MARK 10%SPACE (OFF/ON).
There is nothing sacred about how the pulse waveform is generated; there are many ways
to generate pulses and the attached diagrams show a few. The diagram shows the NE555-
circuit approach from the referenced patent. The output switching transistor must be
rated for 1-5 amps @ 12VDC (in saturation).
Go with a plan that works for you or your friendly neighborhood technoid or mechanic and
go get all the circuit elements from your local electronics store such as Radio-Shack or
Circuits-R-Us including the circuit board IC sockets and enclosure/box.
DigiKey has better selection service and knowledge; plus they have no minimum order. Be
sure to use a circuit board with a built-in ground plane and to accommodate room for
mounting 2 or 3 of the gauges. Mounting the reaction chamber in the engine compartment
will require running a stub to your pressure gauge where you can watch it.
You can easily make 30-gauge wire-wrap connections between the socket pins and thruhole
discrete components having wire leads. Also make sure to get spec sheets on any IC
you use. More details of the best circuits to use will be announced pending prototype
testing. You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap
on.
Throttle Control
If you have a throttle position sensor you should be able to access the signal from the
sensor itself OR from the computer connector. This signal is input to the circuit as the
primary control (i.e. throttle level = pulse width = vapor rate).
If you don’t have such a signal available you will have to rig a rotary POT (variable
resistor) to the gas li
running to the carb or FI. If you make the attachment at the carb/FI be sure to use a
POT that can handle the engine temp cycles. Don’t use a cheezy-cheapy POT; get one
rated for long life and mechanical wear; mount it securely to something sturdy and
stationary that will not fall apart when you step on the gas.
Control Range. The full throttle RANGE (idle-max) MUST control the vapor rate i.e. pulsewidth
(duty). The resistor values at the throttle signal must allow the throttle signal
voltage say 1-4 Volt swing to drive the VAPOR RATE. You will be using this voltage swing
to generate a 10% ON ’square’ pulse. The patent implies using a ‘resonant’ pulse in the 10-
250 KHz frequency range; but it is not explicitly stated so.
In this circuit you will simply tune to whatever frequency makes the most efficient vapor
conversion. You will have to get into the specs for each IC you use to insure you connect
the right pins to the right wires to control the frequency and pulse width. You can use
spare sockets to try out different discrete component values. Just keep the ones that are
spec-compatible in the circuit and get the job done.
You crank up the throttle signal and put more electrical energy (fatter pulses) into the
electrodes; verify you can get 10% duty on the scope (2 – 100 usec on the horizontal timeba
Your averaging DVM will display the 90%-10% DC voltage across the output
transistor (Vce or Vds or Output to Ground). Set and connect DVM in the supply current
and measure .5 – 5 amps without blowing the DVM fuse. Now verify that you got
everything you wanted.
Verify your wiring connections using your DVM as a continuity detector. Check your wiring
1 at a time and yellow line your final schematic as you go. You can best use board-mount
miniature POTs for anything you want to set-and-forget. The LEDs are there to give you a
quick visual check of normal vs abnormal operation of your new creation. You will want to
get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
CARB/FI CONNECTION
The diagram also shows that fittings are required to the carb/FI l. There are ready-made
kits (such as by Impco) available for making your pressure fittings to the carburetor or
fuel-injector as the case may be. You will necessarily be sealing the built-in vents and
making a 1-way air-intake.
The copper mesh comprises the inadvertent backfire’ protection for the reaction
chamber. Make sure that all vapor/duct junctions are air-tight and holding full pressure
without leakage. Your new ’system’ is considered successful and properly adjusted when
you get the full power range at lower temp and minimum vapor flow without blowing the
pressure safety valve.
CHT (or EGT)
Monitor your engine temp with the CHT (cylinder head temp) or EGT (exhaust gas temp)
instead of your original engine temp indicator (if any). Your existing gauge is too slow for
this application and will not warn you against overheating until after you have burnt
something. Make sure that your engine runs no hotter than in the gasoline arrangement.
VDO makes a CHT gauge with a platinum sensor that fits under your spark plug against the
cylinder head (make sure it is really clean before you re-install your spark plug (as this is
also an electrical ground).
ENGINE/EXHAUST TREATMENT
Get the valves replaced with stainless steel ones and get the pistons/cylinders ceramictreated
ASAP when you have successfully converted and run your new creation. Do not
delay as these items will rust either by sheer use or by neglect (i.e. letting it sit). You
could make max use of your current exhaust system by using it with your new deal until it
rusts through then have your mechanic or welder friend to fit a stainless steel exhaust
pipe (no catalytic converter is required). But it could be easier and cheaper to send your
existing exhaust system out for the ceramic treatment and then simply re-attach it to
the exhaust ports.
GENERAL
1. Do not discard or remove any of the old gasoline setup components e.g. tank carb/FI
catalytic converter unless necessary. Better to always leave an easy way to revert back to
something that at least runs just in case. Some people are leaving their gasoline setup
completely intact and switching back and forth at will just to have a backup plan.
2. Set your throttle circuit so that you get minimum vapor flow at idle and maximum vapor
flow at full power without blowing the pressure relief valve. In this way you control how
‘lean’ your mixture is by the strength of the pulse (i.e. “fatness” at the optimum pulse
frequency).
3. If you just don’t get enough power (at any throttle setting) it means that you need to
(1) change the pulse frequency (2) change the gap between the electrodes (3) change the
size (bigger) electrodes or (4) make a higher output pulse voltage (last resort). Always use
an output transistor such as a MOSFET that is rated for the voltage and current you
need to get the job done. OK so you might have to play around with it some. Isn’t that
where all the Fun is anyhow?
4. If you get any engine knock our loud combustions (not compensated by adjusting the
timing) it means that you need to install an additional coil in the chamber and drive the
coil with an additional pulse signal (about 19 Hz on the .1sec time ba
you will be slowing down the burn rate just enough so that the vapors burn thru out the
power stroke of the piston. Be sure to include a board-mount POT to set the correct
strength of this 2nd pulse signal into the coil. This is a stainless steel coil of about 1500
turns (thin wire) that you can arrange like a donut around the center pipe (but NOT
touching either electrode) directly over the circular 1-5mm gap. You want no knocking at
any power/throttle setting; smooth power only but also no excess hydrogen leftover from
the combustion.
5. Build the canister(s) as tall as you can without compromising your ability to mount them
conveniently near the dash panel or in the engine compartment as the case may be. This
way you can always make the electrodes bigger if necessary without undue hardship.
Remember that anything in the engine compartment should be mounted in a bullet-proof
vibration and temperature tolerant fashion.
6. If you have to drill a thru-hole for wiring or plumbing thru me
install a grommet for protection against chafing. Always watch your chamber pressure
range from IDLE (15-25 psi) – FULL POWER (30-60 psi). Set your safety-pressure reliefvalve
to 75 psi and make sure it’s rated for much higher.
7. Shut OFF the power switch and pull over if there is any malfunction of the system. Your
engine will last longest when it still develops FULL POWER+ at some minimum temperature
that we are sure you can find by leaning back the Royal Vapor Flow and/or by making use
of the water-vapor cooling technique (see diagram). Keep good mpg performance records
and periodic maintenance/inspection. Keep it clean; save some money; clean the air; heal
the planet; happy motoring; tell a friend; enjoy your freedom and self-empowerment.
8. There lacks documented material for perfecting this vapor system thru a fuel injector;
there may be some details you will discover on your own as working prototypes progress.
For example you may be restricted to inject the hydrogen/oxygen vapor without any
water vapor as it may rust the injectors. If engine temp and CHT is a problem then you
will want to re-think your plan e.g. ceramic-coating the injectors. There is always
“replacing the FI system with a Carb.”
9. If you install the water-vapor system (for lower operating temp/stress) you will want
to lean the mixture (vapor/air) for minimum vapor flow rate to achieve any given throttle
position (idle – max). Make sure that you get a minimum flow for IDLE and a modestly
sufficient flow for MAX that does the cooling job without killing the combustion.
10. If you cannot find stainless steel pipe combinations that yield the 1-5mm gap you can
always regress back to alternating plates of +/- electrodes.
11. If you are concerned about the water freezing in your system you can (a) add some
98% isopropyl alcohol and re-adjust the pulse frequency accordingly; or (b) install some
electric heating coils.
12. Do not let ANYONE ever compromise your dream your freedom your independence or
your truth.
REFERENCES
Stephen Chambers ‘Apparatus for Producing Orthohydrogen and/or
Parahydrogen’ US Patent 6126794 uspto.gov
Stanley Meyer ‘Method for the Production of a Fuel Gas’ US Patent 4936961
uspto.gov
Creative Science & Research ‘Fuel From Water’ fuelless.com
Carl Cella “A Water-Fuelled Car” Nexus Magazine Oct-Nov 1996
Peter Lindemann “Where in the World is All the Free Energy” free-energy.cc
George Wiseman “The Gas-Saver and HyCO Series” eagle-research.com
C. Michael Holler “The Dromedary Newsletter” and “SuperCarb Techniques”
Stephen Chambers “Prototype Vapor Fuel System” xogen.com
COMMON LAW COPYRIGHT #285714: All rights to the use and duplication of these plans are hereby reserved for the People
in their efforts to heal and restore the environment. Dare to express your uniqueness and environmental ideals. This
technology is an exercise in responsible self-determination.
DISCLAIMER: The Spirit of Ma’at LLC and the Spirit of Ma’at ezine and the author of this document assumes no liability for
the use or misuse of this information; which is made available as public-domain information and free of charge for the
purposes of education ecology health well-being freedom liberty and pursuit of happiness.
PS: I can’t put up the drawings and schematics in this forum…….pls e-mail me either with a page to upload them to send file via msn or irc. Cheers and good luck!